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Fashion details that make the difference
Exquisite tulle, lace, embroidery, ribbons and braiding

Detail...ed Dictionary: definitions of fashion details
Terms for textile details
(appliqués, processes, embroidery, lace)

Ajour: (from French) open embroidery or hemstitch, openwork

All-over lace: so-called when the pattern extends over the entire surface of the material

Bias binding folder: tool designed for bias binding, used to fold the fabric

Bias cut ribbon: band of fabric cut diagonally in various widths and materials, smooth or folded, used for edging

Bib: bodice or jabot, textile appliqué

Binding: very fine fabric or ribbon used in dressmaking and tailoring to finish and cover the internal seams of garments

Border braid: edging or cord consisting of interlaced fibres woven diagonally, also used to describe woven or knitted braids

Bow: tied ribbon serving as an adornment

Braids &Trimmings: decoration, ensemble of trims, ribbons, cords, braiding, various types of lacework

Broderie: (from French) embroidered trim for appliqué work

Broderie Anglaise: type of whitework embroidery in cotton, originally from Sankt Gallen in Switzerland, characterized by eyelets

Canneté ribbon: (from French) reps weave fabric with fine, raised ribs

Cantù lace: typical lace produced in and around the Lombard town of Cantù from which it takes its name

Cockade: rosette of one or more ribbons, folded or gathered

Cord: fine braided cord

Cordonnet : special twisted yarn for embroidery or braiding

Crochet hook: small iron needle with a hook at one end, used for knitting and netting, also lends its name to work produced using the tool itself
Crochet work: (from French), work done on crochet looms, from which the name derives

Cut out work: work featuring various ornamental motifs, executed on layered fabrics so as to allow alternate glimpses of each

Decoration: ensemble of adornments that adorn a given product

Dentelle: (from French), various types of lace used for adornment

Draping: ensemble of soft folds

Edging: trimming with tape or ribbon, embroidered appliqué for hems and edges

Elastic ribbon: obtained by inclusion of stretch yarns

Embroidery: decorative work performed on fabric using needle and yarns of various kinds

Festoon: ornamental pattern, scallop or embroidery stitch for trimming

Flounce: band of fabric, of variable height,  sometimes ruched, used for appliqué work

Frill: band of fabric, light in appearance, wavy and ruched, designed for appliqué work

Fringe: band of fabric consisting of loose hanging threads or cords

Frog: braid fastening, typical galloon on military uniforms

Furbelow: long, narrow band of ruffled, gathered fabric, used for appliqué work

Galloon: band of fabric, in variable heights and materials, used as a trim

Grain ribbon: woven on loom with warp and weft yarns of the same count

Grosgrain: closely woven ribbon with fine raised ribs produced using a plain weave with a fine warp thread and a coarser weft

Hemming: band of fabric, bias cut ribbon with which a garment is hemmed

Interlacing: combination of various materials; threads, cords, ribbons

Jabot: appliqué, bib, usually of very fine cotton, adorned with lace and embroidery, ruffled and folded

Jacquard: mechanism incorporated in special looms for weaving patterned fabrics, the name deriving from its inventor

Jacquard ribbon: type of patterned ribbon woven on jacquard looms, with various yarn compositions and patterns

Lace¹: string or cord used for tying

Lace²: lacework, openwork fabric produced by interlacing or knotting threads by hand, with a crochet hook, with a bobbin or on a machine

Lace³: decorative product derived from mesh fabric, may be machine or hand-made

Lace bands: long strips of lace, produced in various heights

Lace header: embroidery or lace with eyelets for feeding through a ribbon

Lace medallions: products designed with single motifs for ornamental purposes

Macramé: ancient art based on various methods of knotting and interlacing threads and cords, originally invented for trimming and decorating the edge of fabric with knotted fringes

Macramé embroidery: (chemical lace), produced on a technical background fabric which is chemically removed on completion of the embroidery. The result resembles lacework more than embroidery

Mesh:  transparent fabric with open texture produced by knotting the threads in various ways. It may feature a base structure that combines the various parts of the pattern forming the lace

Multicoloured embroidery: produced by changing the yarn and the repeat, also in an alternating version, the aim being to produce a good blend of colours

Openwork: embroidery with holes and cut out work forming a pattern, may also be produced using laser technology

Patch: textile appliqué used for decorative effect

Patchwork: mix of various swatches of fabric sewn together

Picot: decorative element used in embroidery to form the edging of an ornamental pattern

Piping: ribbon with fullness along edge, piping for hems

Plait: ensemble of a number of threads, ribbons or cords, combined by passing the various strands one over another

Plissé: pleated or crepe fabric

Polka dot: print featuring regularly distributed dots or spots of variable dimensions

Pompon: French term used to indicate a decorative bow, ball or tuft

Quilting: type of embroidery made through two layers of fabric,  or typical padding stitch, usually herringbone, used for appliquéing patches and reinforcements on garments

Raschel lace: lace which takes its name from the inventor of a loom used to produce excellent lace, which is nonetheless not as sophisticated as handmade lace

Rebrodé: (from French), embroidery work with cordonnets accentuating an outline on an already embroidered base

Ribbon: any fabric no more than 18cm in height, used for decorative purposes and various appliqués

Rigid ribbon: ribbon with finished selvage edges, can be made of various yarns

Ruche: (from French), band of gathered or pleated fabric in various lengths, used for ornamentation or for appliqué work

Scallop: embroidery on lace fabric, cut out along the scalloped edge

Selvage: finished edge at either side of a fabric, woven so as to prevent fraying

Sequins: small shining discs, spangles in metallic laminates

Soutache: (from French), fine cord used to trim and finish hems, or for certain embroidery work

Tape: cotton ribbon, generally used to reinforce trouser hems

Tassel: dangling ornament consisting of a bunch of threads fastened at one end

Textile accessory: complementary element for the purpose of adornment, etc.; ribbon, braid, lace, appliqué

Trim: slim, evident edging produced by folding a bias-cut ribbon, also called piping in weaving

Trimming: ribbon, edging for decoration

Tulle: fine transparent mesh of hexagonal weave, made of various types of yarn

Valenciennes lace: French in origin, great skill was required to produce this lace, which features extremely intricate, sophisticated designs

 

Bibliography
Antonio Donnanno - Le parole della moda – Ikon, 2001
Ettore Bianchi - Dizionario internazionale dei tessuti - 1997
Il ricamo - Consorzio Promozione Ricamo Italiano, 1997 

by Annalisa Campara 
FASHION FM ZOOM ON FASHION TRENDS