Fashion Details Award – Second edition
September 8 2009 – Moda In

  

The Fashion Details Award is now in its second year.

Set up by the Federazione Industriali dei Tessilivari e del Cappello (Federation of Entrepreneurs manufacturing Sundry Textiles and Hats) in co-operation with the INDACO Department of the Politecnico di Milano and with the support of the Ministero dello Sviluppo Economico (Ministry for Economic Development) and the Istituto Nazionale per il Commercio con l’Estero (National Institute for Trade with Foreign Countries), the Fashion Details Award allows new talents in the fashion industry to meet the reality of Italian textile details.

The project aims to create a deep synergy between the Academic world and a niche textile industry.

 

 

From 127 initial creative proposals, 20 were selected, where the FASHION DETAIL represents an added value.

 

 

The Jury of the Fashion Details Award 2009 boasts the participation of the fashion designer Anna Molinari whose profound experience in the fashion world combines with the professionalism of Laura Lusuardi – Fashion Director of the Max Mara Group, Cipriana Dall’Orto – Co-Director of the magazine Donna Moderna, Arturo Dell’Acqua Bellavitis – Director of the Department INDACO of Politecnico di Milano and Lucia Serlenga – journalist, curator of the book “I dettagli cambiano la moda” (Fashion Details make the difference).

 

They will be entrusted with assessing the best use of the fashion detail, the uniqueness of the proposal and stylistic innovation of the final model achieved by the Politecnico students.

On September 8, as part of Moda In – Milano Unica, the three young talents will receive an award, the 20 final models will be put on display and, finally, the video containing the creations of all the participants will be shown.

 

 

A part of the Fashion Details Award Project of Federazione Tessilivari and the Politecnico di Milano, the Great Fashion Details Award is dedicated to the journalist Anna Piaggi and will be presented during the inauguration of Milano Unica.

 

       

‘Everything starts from the head…” is the leitmotif of Anna Piaggi’s response to the proposal of being awarded a prize at the Fashion Details Project: perfectly summing up her ornamental themes and of the companies that are members to Tessilivari.

       

Anna Piaggi’s contribution is immensely important due to her renown amongst the youngsters of the field, who admire her as a journalist, and for the sense of freedom that all her appearances inspire.

The Fashion Details Award 2009 is also an opportunity to strengthen the identity of companies that have been working with success in the textile-fashion sector for many years.

Il Successo dei Dettagli: gli Outfits

1st placed:

“CUTUP-GUSCIO”
Design by Laura Carabba

Companies involved: Federico Aspesi S.r.l. Forza Giovane Decor S.r.l.

’The garment is like a home, a protective shield conveying one’s personality. Inspiration is drawn from a shape very much the symbol of creativity, the oval – an aesthetic image balanced between pictorial art and stylistic intelligence, where the masterly assembly of embroideries and decorations on a fabric that is neutral, yet enriched by special needlework, paint with new harmony a shell made of petals and poetry”.

 

 

2nd placed:

“MY NEW FOLKLORE”
Design by Francesca Casartelli

Companies involved: CIM Italia S.p.A., Pirola Giovanni S.n.c, Ricamificio Gimar S.r.l.

“Visual routes as new paths of a geography of taste and materials. The project explores sharp contrasts, producing different interpretive levels and meanings. The dialogue between inside and outside, the classic layout and the asymmetrical cut, the plentiful decorations constructed and applied in an innovative way, turn the opposition between black and white, between geometrical and floral elements, into a chromatic and aesthetic movement of great impact”.

 

 

3rd placed:

“E’CLAT ”
Design by Violante Cappuccini

Companies involved: CIM Italia S.p.A., Roncari Piero dei F.lli Roncari

“Knitwear in its most modern expression plays the lead role in a style that is essential, yet rich in contents. The play on reflections and cuts of light animates the metal band on which hi-tech embroidery of studs draws the profile of a femininity conveyed but not stressed. The petite-robe is back amongst the ‘must haves’ with a decidedly contemporary allure: minimalism in shapes, preciousness of jewel-like decorations”.

ROMANTIC GLAMOUR
Design by Eleonora Aquili

Companies involved: Mauri Angelo S.r.l., Remmert S.p.A., T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l

This creation consists of an evening dress matched by a necklace made in the same materials.
The bodice is a combination of stretch lace trims Mauri Angelo S.r.l.
The full skirt is created by overlapping layers of tulle of different types and colours T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l, then enriched with  grosgrain and lace tapes Remmert S.p.A.

The necklace, in turn, is a tulle string with two flowers applied on top, still in the same material, embellished by a ribbon.

REDMIRAGE
Design by Beatrice Bergamini

Aziende:  Framis Italia S.p.A., Topp Italia S.r.l., BRB S.r.l., ZIP GFD S.p.A.

This sleeveless garment comes down to mid-thigh and consists of two combined fabrics: a simple, black prototype cloth and a membrane in matt red polyurethane Framis Italia S.p.A. The design is simple and squared, slightly flared on the hem. The front can be fully opened, and consists of a zipper ZIP GFD S.p.a. also covered by a polyurethane strip, to make it as invisible as possible. The garment does not have real sleeves, but a series of ribbons of various sizes and colours Topp Italia S.r.l. that partly cover the arms. The base of the garment is decorated with a row of rivets in three different sizes and two colours: green and silver BRB S.r.l.

NEW MILITARY CHIC
Design by Mattia Bernardi

Companies involved: T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l, Topp Italia S.r.l., Ricamificio Gimar S.r.l., ZIP GFD S.p.A., BRB S.r.l.
 
This sleeveless jacket is made in stretch and interwoven fabric Ricamificio Gimar S.r.l., with a  metal zipper in the middle ZIP GFD S.p.A.
The armhole is hemmed by ribbons.
The two bands/belts that further close the jacket are made in satin tubulars Topp Italia S.r.l., cornflower blue cotton on a base of cotton ribbon Topp Italia S.r.l.  in the same colour, as are the metal buckles BRB S.r.l.
The bubble skirt is made in tulle T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l and plays on different layers of colour and shape,
and it is bordered by ribbons in cotton, cornflower blue,  on the waist and on some layers of the skirt.
The hat is also made in tulle, edged with matching pleated cornflower blue  and cream trims.

NINFA
Design by Maria Chiara Bernazzani

Companies involved: Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l., Remmert S.p.A.
   
This garment consists of a sleeveless top featuring two different levels that overlap and a short, low-waisted flared skirt Remmert S.p.A.. Various layers of tulle were applied onto the skirt, sewn  to create small ruffles that, as a result, increase its volume and movement. Embroideries are in raffia or sharply-cut tulle Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l, an aspect that conveys an effect of natural disorder to the figure - a calculated, intended disorder - giving the feminine form a rather more untamed nature.

S’IL VOUS PLEAT
Design by Chiara Biavaschi

Companies involved:  Federico Aspesi S.r.l., T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l, Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l.

The project centres on the study of pleats and gathers; hence the pun in the title: from the French s’il vous plaît, I replaced the last word with pleat.

The outfit will be riding-style pants, with an oversize, very broad upper part, a part in hand-pleated tulle T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l. and a sleeveless shirt characterised by the presence of two crimped overlapping collars Federico Aspesi S.r.l., Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l.

IL LAGO DELLE NINFE
Design by Francesco Bonanomi

Companies involved: Lustrosa S.r.l., Roncari Piero dei F.lli Roncari, BRB S.r.l.

An evening dress drawing inspiration from nature and the sense of balance expressed by places that are pure and unblemished by man.
The garment develops from a sheath dress in blue silk onto which 14 vertical cotton stripes have been applied; on these, 70 sequins Lustrosa  S.r.l. in two different shades of light blue are attached with tiny sequins and beads.
On the lower hem, the garment features a decorative fringe Roncari Piero dei F.lli Roncari in the same colour as the silk base.
The Nymphs lake and the colours produced by the flowers on the water inspired my creation of this garment.
I tried to convey this chromatic effect to the outfit by means of the nuance shaped by the arrangement of the sequins - from dark blue in the upper part to gradually lighter colours, reaching a very pale blue in the lower part.

A buckle BRB S.r.l., conceived as an accessory, completes the outfit.

FOLDING LIGHT
Design by Gaia Bonfanti

Companies involved: Topp Italia S.r.l., Remmert S.p.A.

This project draws inspiration from the observation of the “art in folding paper”:  origami.
This Eastern discipline is transferred onto an outfit consisting of a sheath dress and a bolero jacket.
The sheath dress is made with pleated ribbons of different widths in silver satin Topp Italia S.r.l.

The bolero jacket, in grey felt Remmert S.p.A., is worked asymmetrically with inlays created out of origami-ribbons in blue satin Remmert S.p.A.

NEONOMADE 
Design by Fabio Borgia

Companies involved: Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l., CIM Italia S.p.A.

A garment-shape, developing into overlapping and deconstructed levels, exhibiting cuts, structured, revealed hems, as a value of a fashion that stems from the combination of neo-archaic meanings and a return to man’s primordial self.

Along the lines of this mood I created my project consisting of a  HIGH EXPERIME[N]TAL JACKET in embroidered fabric Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l. with appliqués in precious stones CIM Italia S.p.A. and SHINING PANTS edged with gems.

LOCAL – GLOBAL
Design by Benedetta Broggi

Companies involved: Federico Aspesi S.r.l., Achille Valera Lissoni S.r.l., Manifattura di Domodossola S.p.A.

In Thailand there lives a tribe of the so-called “giraffe women” who put a series of bronze rings around their neck to make it longer as a sign of femininity. This custom is reproduced in the garment by a series of trimmings Achille Valera Lissoni S.r.l. and chokers Manifattura di Domodossola S.p.a. around the neck.

The rest of the garment draws Federico Aspesi S.r.l. inspiration from fabrics of the African tribe Masai.

ZIP DRESS 
Design by Michela Caruso

Companies involved: ZIP GFD S.p.A., Nastrificio De Bernardi S.p.A.

Sheath dress assembled with zippers ZIP GFD S.p.a. in different lengths and with different tabs. Entirely closed in the front with a series of crimped ribbons Nastrificio De Bernardi S.p.A.,  5 cm wide,  which provide support for the dress. The zippers are 60 cm and 65 cm long with steel and barrel grey coloured teeth and different tabs to create different slits.

CHARLESTON
Design by Silvia Casetti 

Companies involved: Palm Luigi Merletti di A. & M. Merletti & C. S.a.s., Achille Valera Lissoni S.r.l.

Charleston-type dress, very simple and with a straight line, but also rich thanks to the ribbons Achille Valera Lissoni S.r.l.,  and lace Palm Luigi Merletti di A. & M. Merletti & C. S.a.s.composing it and giving the impression of one single fabric.

The ribbons and lace are masterfully combined in this design, with the delicate and refined colour hues ranging from powder pink to white, from pearl grey to ivory and silver. 

URBAN VS CHIC
Design by Angela Caturano

Companies involved: Ricamificio Gimar S.r.l., Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l., Punto Art S.r.l, CIM Italia S.p.A., ZIP GFD S.p.A.

Metropolitan-style vest in pearl grey embroidered taffeta Ricamificio Gimar S.r.l. and in Lurex effect viscose Ricamificio V. Vanoni S.r.l. , enriched by a cascade of small studs.  The garment presents a double buttoning: on the right, a zipper with red metal studs and on the left, a pearl grey zipper  ZIP GFD S.p.a. unveiling other small metal studs CIM Italia S.p.a. 

A garment that converts, adjusting to two different styles, a metropolitan one with a touch of red, and a more refined one with more neutral hues.  The outfit includes softly cascading pants with broderie anglais Punto Art S.r.l.

CORAL
Design by Chiara Cavanna

Companies involved: Framis Italia S.p.A., Lustrosa S.r.l.

Swimsuit made in polyurethane ribbon Framis Italia S.p.A., processed with knitting needles and decorated with sequin embroidery Lustrosa S.r.l.
The jewel-like shoulder straps create a special effect. One strap is made of strung sequins in rolls of different colours Lustrosa S.r.l. and the other is a knitted combination of short garter-stitched sequin yarns and sequin foils Lustrosa S.r.l., cut in thin strips and knitted as normal yarns.

The cap is made of crocheted mesh, combining a polyurethane ribbon around which three sequin yarns in different colours are wrapped. 

THROUGH LINES
Design by Valentina D'Alonzo

Companies involved: Nastrificio De Bernardi S.p.A, Pirola Giovanni S.n.c.

A long dress entirely developed through the overlapping and combination of black satin ribbons Nastrificio De Bernardi S.p.a., enriched and made more precious by the application of lace braids Pirola Giovanni S.n.c.  The basic concept behind the garment is “now you see it, now you don’t”.

UNSHRINKABLE SUMMER
Design by Francesca D’Amato

Companies involved: Manifattura di Domodossola S.p.A., Roncari Piero dei F.lli Roncari

This garment is characterised by a brass-coloured raffia top intertwined with a black cord Manifattura di Domodossola  S.p.A. The stiff bodice is decorated by a fringe over the breast Roncari Piero dei F.lli Roncari, created with the same fabric.  The top is attached to shantung briefs, decorated with 60 cm long, black-coloured fringes Roncari Piero dei F.lli Roncari, giving the effect of lightweight pants. The garment is designed to serve as an outfit, composed of a swimsuit, a typical summer garment, and a beach robe, usually made of lightweight fabrics. 

RODON LACE
Design by Gloria Guaita

Companies involved: Mauri Angelo S.r.l., T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l, Palm Luigi Merletti di A. & M. Merletti & C. S.a.s.

A tulle T.F.T Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli S.r.l. and lace Palm Luigi Merletti di A. & M. Merletti & C. S.a.s. sheath dress, within whose folds an entire rose garden seems to be in bloom. The body is enveloped in lace bands of different broadness Mauri  Angelo S.r.l., with the embroidery work allowing glimpses of the underlying tulle fabric.The lace is an antique rose colour, with touches of grey. 

Transparency and overlapping create a special movement when the garment is worn. The fitted top and the flared bottom give the lace a different volume. A shell-shaped bag in lace and tulle with a rose-shaped clasp complete the outfit.

 

 

Sparkling White
Design by Matthan Gori

Companies involved: Pizval S.r.l., Nastrificio De Bernardi S.p.A

This garment includes lace Pizval S.r.l. and satin strips Nastrificio De Bernardi S.p.A.,  that, through weaving and stitching, create a simultaneusly structured and destructured fabric.  A combination of western modernity and eastern tradition, revealed through the shape of the bridal veil that is designed as a transformation element, an intrinsic part of the outfit,  which can be worn as a veil or as a rich collar.  An element of religious devotion or earthly frivolity. Two different paths for the same substance.

The companies belonging to Tessilivari are:

 

Supporting the initiative: